Floorcloths first became popular in the 18th century in Europe.  Sail-
cloth was handpainted and stenciled and imported by wealthy American 
colonists.   Early settlers struggled to add a touch of refinement to 
their rough hewn houses with dirt floors.  Inventive pioneer women 
learned they could make floorcloths similar to the expensive imports 
by using sail cloth obtained from local sailmakers.  Not only did they 
add a decorative element - they helped block out the cold drafts and 
could be moved from room to room.  Floorcloths became the forerunner 
of linoleum and costlier factory-made carpets.

Floorcloths lay best on flat surfaces of wood, linoleum or concrete.
Tile is okay if the grooves aren't deep because the floorcloth will 
mold itself to the shape it's on.  Carpeting is not recommended as 
the stress of heels may cause puncture holes.

They are very easy to maintain only needing to be wiped with a damp 
cloth.  Don't allow moisture to puddle on top or underneath as it 
could cause wrinkling.  

A non-slip rubber backing can be applied to the corners or edges if 
slippage is a problem.

CANVAS MATERIALS:

From #6 to #10  canvas is recommended.  Higher the number the lighter 
the weight.  Numbered canvases are double-fill, meaning they have 
two threads running in the warp and in the weft.  It is stronger 
than canvas sold by the ounce, which is single-fill constructed.  
Pre-cut and gessoed canvas is readily available in 2x3 or half 
circle sizes.  The advantage to using these is that no preparation is 
necessary.  I do not hem my floorcloths as I don't like the ridge
that they leave.  Better quality numbered canvas has straighter run-
ning threads and is thicker than the cheaper light-weight canvas, is 
nicer to work with and gives a heavier end product.  

If using raw canvas, cut to size (allowing extra if you plan to hem) 
stretch taut and secure to a wooden frame.  See my list of reference 
books on use of wooden frames.  I use heavier weight canvas so prefer 
to stretch a large piece at one time on a big flat board to prevent 
sagging.  I leave it to stretch for 24 hours before I apply 2 coats of
gesso on the top.  After it has dried, I remove it from the board and 
apply one coat of gesso to the backside.  I then cut to the size I 
want.  This works better for me and is easier to cut when primed. I 
use Gesso to prime because I like the thickness of it.   Priming seals
the fibers and stops absorption of paint into the canvas.  It levels 
the weave and provides a smooth surface for painting.  Household paint 
or primer can also be used to seal the canvas but may take more coats
as they are thinner.  Both the front and back should be primed - 2 
coats on the front and 1 coat on the back letting each dry well.  Sand
after the final coat.  It is best to use all water-based or all oil-
based products to ensure compatibility between paint layers.  If you 
don't, you may encounter cracking of paint and varnish.  I use water-
based products for mine.  I do not hem my floorcloths - the heavy 
weight canvas lays flat without.  I take extra pre-cautions when cut-
ting the canvas on a thread line so that my edges are straight and do 
not fray.  There aren't rules regarding hemming, although most people 
do, probably because directions are given in reference books.  I have 
been successful in eliminating that final step by using a heavier 
weight canvas.